Herbst 2015-Mode von Christian Dior
Ein Trick des Auges. Ist das nicht letztlich welche Haute Couture ist etwa, dass Fähigkeit für einige der unglaublichsten Designer und Techniker der Welt, zur Körperlichkeit in ätherischen, Beherrschung des materiellen Akt der Herstellung zu manipulieren soweit es Kleidung wird magisch? Wenn es ist, dann Raf Simons erzielt eine perfekten Ten, wie die Dior Ateliers, die Arbeit für ihn, für seine brillante, schöne und oft atemberaubenden fallen 2015-Couture-Kollektion. Angeblich, die Mission war dies: verwandeln Sie in Kleidung, die himmlischen Freuden und die irdische Freuden enthalten in Hieronymus Boschs frühen sechzehnten Jh. Triptychon der Garten der Lüste, im Museo del Prado in Madrid aufbewahrt.
Simons, allerdings ist ein Designer, der gerne Schicht und layer seine Bezugspunkte unserer Zeit vollständig nutzen. beobachtete sie entfalten, wie Sie durch eine seiner Shows sitzen ist wie Instagram durchblättern; Vergangenheit und Zukunft, Hochkultur und Popkultur, die Avantgarde und der Straße, alles fließende zusammen bringen Sie in nur einer platzieren — der Gegenwart. Für ihn kann dann Couture von heute erstellt werden, aus der kunstvollen Manipulation von was ihn, unabhängig von Zeit oder Ort oder kulturelle Stellung inspiriert.
So dort waren, in die Kap-wie Mäntel mit einzelnen Pelz Ärmel und Plissee Auskleidungen, einige getragen auf und nicht unter Hinweise der flämischen Schule der Malerei, die ihn seit Jahrzehnten fasziniert hat und sprach zu seinen eigenen Antwerpener Wurzeln. Es gab drapierte Kapuze Tweed Kragen, die auf seinem ewigen Interesse in der Mitte des Jahrhunderts Entwurf gedeiht berührt. Die siebziger Jahre Kontur, da eine scharfe und beeindruckende Spin dort arbeitete die traditionellen Dior Bar-Jacken in lockerer Schneiderei getragen mit Puddelverfahren Fackeln in den meisten un-Couture wie Cord; Einige dieser Mäntel und Jacken trug einer neue Hülse-Form gearbeitet, um das ikonische 1947 Jut Walmdächern Jacke verweisen. In der Zwischenzeit die glitzerbedeckten Plattform Sandalen schrie Verein Kind. Und Simons stützte sich auf die späten neunzehnten Jahrhundert Kunst-Technik des Pointillismus, drehen, print, Stickerei, Handmalerei Techniken und Federn in Pastell sanft getönten florale Muster, die ihre Herkunft die näher offenbart hast du zu ihnen.
Was die Bosch-Meisterwerk es war der Ausgangspunkt für die Aufnahme einer Narrativ dichten Canvas in der leichteste Kleidung, kontrastierenden engelhaft, Virginal bestickt weiß Seide chiffon Kleider mit aussehen, sprach viel mehr von den Freuden des Fleisches, nämlich eine Reihe von gestickten und gedruckten Kleider, provozierend offenbart eine Ausdehnung der nackten Haut. Wenn Simons Arbeit in hat die Vergangenheit abgebaut eine Tiefe Naht kontrollierte Sinnlichkeit, diese eine neuere, geradlinige sexuelle Aufladung durchgeführt, und das war kein Trick des Auges.
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